Agumbe – A pre-monsoon & monsoon Expedition

Our car is speeding past the limit, blindly following a SUV in front of us (Bangalore Wildlife Photographer friends) without knowing where we are headed or why. The cars come to a halt at the entrance of an unassuming house in a village. Already a few villagers were gathered and were giving curious looks at us getting out of cars armed with cameras. It is only now we come to know that a King Cobra rescue call was received and an expert had arrived. Excitement on seeing the King was spreading across our group.

Yes, you guessed it right! We are in the land of King Cobras, Agumbe – a rain forest in Chickmagalur district of Karnataka. I had the opportunity of visiting Agumbe twice – as the blog’s title suggests once pre-monsoon (January) and once during monsoon (August). I thought the place was so green and beautiful during my first visit, but found a different meaning altogether during monsoons. There was thick moss covering even the smallest of stones, pavements, there was no mud road visible – it was covered with lush green carpet, the air was cool and fresh, rain drizzling the entire day. Agumbe is nature's gift to us with several waterfalls and it's not surprising that it takes up most of this blogspot.

When we arrived at Jogigundi Falls, rain God was threatening us with dark clouds. We were busy taking photos of pills bug, that had gone into a defensive mode by rolling itself into a ball. Our short hike to reach the Falls was made more memorable by an unseen whistling thrush that filled the forest with its beautiful voice. As we were climbing down last few steps, some brave souls provided breakfast to leeches. Jogigundi Falls doesn't have a sheer drop like onnaka abbe, yet beautiful nevertheless. Crystal clear, cold and clean water slides down a broad rock, forms a small pool before becoming a meandering stream. Suddenly frogs hurriedly jumped away from the path as if to take cover and that's when Rain God showered his love upon us heavily. Rain water itself formed a stream and was following us as if to see us out. After confirming that we were still leech-free, we went back to our rooms (Hingaraa Homestay) for a much needed rest and piping hot food.

Jogigundi Falls

That rainy night we ventured into Hingara plantation (read forest) looking to photograph nocturnal lives. We found many frogs, a Malabar pit viper snake, big spiders and several bugs. The constant rain and lack of light (save our feeble torch lights) didn't deter us from this exciting night walk.

Snakes & Frogs @ Agumbe

Next morning saw us trekking to Onnaka Abbe Falls that gushes down several hundred feet amidst dense forest teeming with wildlife. The rustling sound of our feet seemed to bring the forest alive. Forest floor was covered with dry leaves that had become wet due to incessant rains, leeches trying to hop onto to our bodies for some juicy blood, snakes, frogs and several creatures that we could only hear. We tuned our ears to the sound of water and started walking  towards it. How contrasting it was during January when there was constant sunshine, little to no leeches and not much of these wonderful sounds. Even the waterfalls carried little water whereas in monsoon the roaring sound of water falling down filled our ears for a very long time. Small slippery rocks separate me from the deadly drop of the Falls and yet I peep down to see a rainbow that plays hide-and-seek with us. The sheer drop invokes a mixed feeling of awe and terror inside me. The trek itself isn't difficult, 3-4 km of moderately steep hiking inside the forest along with climbing up and down a hundred steps is definitely worth the view.

Sight of water taking deep curves amid lush green forest (Onnakke Abbe Falls)

View of the falls from the road made us go wow and realise how deeply it was nestled inside forest (Courtesy - Prabhu Mathiyalagan)

After feasting at Dodda Mane (details under accommodation) we decided head to Kundadri Hills. A few kilometres from Agumbe, the curvy roads leading to the hilltop are best enjoyed if we go in a car or bike. The view is so serene – one or two houses scattered across what seems to be endless greenery. The chill wind made all the tiredness from our trek go away.

Time flies away watching this view

We trekked to Koodlu Theertha Falls in January. It is closed during monsoon due to heavy water flow in one of the streams on the way. We had an early start and lucky to have entire trek route and Falls exclusive to us. Initial few kilometres were plain walking. It is only after we crossed a stream that it became exciting. The trek route goes right through the forest without any proper way marked. Sadly, we followed litter left by previous Trekkers. We climbed up and down, took numerous turns, crossed streams, wiggled our way through narrow gaps, jumped across fallen tree trunks all the while chatting non-stop. Forest was so silent apart from our chatter, it was an eerie feeling. A glimpse of the tall falls made us forget everything and we rushed towards it. There it was, seemingly white water falling down with such a force, forming a deep green pool. We formed a human chain and tried reaching the point where it makes the fall. As we walked inside the pool (we poor souls are not swimmers), water level slowly started rising. Water was very cold, there was a fast current flowing and rocks beneath us were very slippery. We decided to turn back half way when water was nearing our chest. I can only imagine the depth further ahead.

Koodlu Theertha Falls

Early morning sun rays filtering through dense foliage

Agumbe is a place where you can simply unwind, enjoy nature and admire its creations. There are a few more places worth exploring like Barkana Falls, Kavaledurga Fort. Agumbe is best reached by car via Bangalore. But there are buses plying in this route. Recently I travelled to Agumbe in a self-driven car from Chennai along with my husband and friend (longest road trip on our own). We crossed curvy roads of Aldur-Sringeri very very late in the night. It was so foggy and raining, visibility was only few feet in front of the car. One of the most thrilling experiences of the trip.

Accommodation –

Dodda Mane

Dodda Mane (roughly translating to Big House in Kannada) has a special place in my heart. The heritage home, their excellent hospitality and most importantly authentic home made Malanad cuisine (I had never had such a tasty food anywhere in my travel so far) are the highlights.

Hingara Homestay (Pic Courtesy - Prabhu Mathiyalagan)

Hingara Homestay is also a property around a hundred years old, adjacent to their plantation providing lots of opportunities to see reptiles and amphibians near the place we stay. Food here is not completely malanad, but decent enough. 

If you are wondering what happened to the King Cobra rescue call, the expert successfully rescued it and released into the wild. He was such a professional that he made sure snake wasn't harmed or felt any discomfort. Thanks to BWP group for the monsoon expedition and my friends who made my first trip to Agumbe possible.

King Cobra